Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 328

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Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 391

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Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 405

Warning: Use of undefined constant desc - assumed 'desc' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 406

Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 407

Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 408

Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 412

Warning: Use of undefined constant desc - assumed 'desc' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 413

Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 414

Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 415

Warning: Use of undefined constant name - assumed 'name' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 419

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Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 422

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Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 457

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Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 463

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Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 512

Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 513

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Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 519

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Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 527

Warning: Use of undefined constant attr - assumed 'attr' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 528

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Warning: Use of undefined constant desc - assumed 'desc' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 533

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Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 548

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Warning: Use of undefined constant desc - assumed 'desc' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 554

Warning: Use of undefined constant csssel - assumed 'csssel' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in /home/kirmizib/public_html/wp-content/themes/ahimsa/functions.php on line 555

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Gezi Yazıları – Fatsa’dan doğuya doğru
16.Temmuz.2009

Son Karadeniz yazımda Fatsa’yla ilgili bir şeyler yazdığımı hatırlıyorum. Fatsa’da Vonalı’nın yerinde öğlen yemeğini afiyetle hallettikten sonra, Ordu‘ya doğru devam ettik (Samsun- Ordu arası 165 km).  Daha önce Ordu’ya gelişlerimden birinde Boztepe‘ye çıkmıştık, şehre 6 km uzaklıkta dar bir yoldan kıvrıla kıvrıla çıkıyorsun. Denizden 450 metre yükseklikte ve manzarası çok güzel, bütün şehri  uzaktan incelemek mümkün. İhmal etmedik, yeniden  çıktık.

ordu-boztepe

Bu kadar yüksekten, şehrin yeşil alanları yutarak nasıl ilerlediği net olarak görülebiliyor. Ordu il merkezi yakınlarında, kitaplardan öğrendiğim kadarıyla Turnasuyu Vadisi diye bir yer varmış. Keşif gezileri yapmak açısından ideal. Vasıtası da bol merak etmeyin. 60 km uzunluğunda yürüyüş rotalarına sahip olan Turnasuyu Vadisi’ne geçmeden evvel, Saraycık beldesine bağlı Yoroz kent ormanı da gezilebilir diye okudum, kısa bir zirve tırmanışı mesela. Biz gezemedik, inşallah bir dahaki sefere. Gezilecek yerler için buradan lütfen.

Ordu’dan 46 km sonra Giresun var tabii sırada. Fındık deyince akla Giresun geliyor. Eşim taze fındığı çok sever, ama henüz fındık toplanmadığı için (Ağustos sonu toplanıyor galiba) millet uyanıklık edip geçen senenin mamulünü satıyordu. Onun için taze fındık yiyemedik.  Giresun’un ısırgan püresi, mısır dolması, karalahana diblesi, hamsi böreği gibi envai çeşit yemeği var. Giresun’da öğlen vakitlerinde olursanız, ihmal etmeyin.

Giresun şehri 3000 yıl önce kurulmuş. Romalılar Pontus Krallığı‘nı ele geçirdikten sonra bir de bakmışlar, yerli halk kırmızı küçük yemişleri olan bir ağaç  yetiştiriyor. Bir teoriye göre kentin antik adı olan Cerasus, bir çok dilde kirazın adına esin kaynağı olmuş (cherry, cersie vs). Ben fındık, fındıklı çikolata, bol kiraz yiyip bel çevremi genişletmeyeyim, gezeyim diyenlerdenseniz, Giresun’a 60 km uzaklıktaki Karagöller dağ sinsilesi sizin için  ideal. Atlas Dergisi‘nin  çıkardığı, Türkiye Tatil Atlası’na göre, en tavsiye edilen parkurlar; Eğribel Çoban Bağırtan, Turna ovası – Kümbet, Eğribel – Avşar Obası – Sağrak Gölü, Kırklar tepesi, Karagöl Tepesi, Aygır Gölü – Elmalı Obası.

yayla_sis(resim buradan)

Biz trek falan yapamadık, bünyeyi zorlamaya gerek yok. Trabzonda konaklamayı düşündüğümüz için, Giresun’dan oraya ilerledik. Merkezde bir yere, Büyük İmaret Camii’nin yanında bir yere arabayı park ettik, ama bu kosmopolit şehir üzerimize üzerimize geldi.  Nedense şehir merkezinde elini sallasan yirmi tanesine çarpan, gruplar halinde gezmeyi sevdikleri her hallerinden anlaşılan yağız delikanlıların, aydınlık yüzlü, munis Karadeniz insanıyla pek bir ortak özelliğini göremedik. Denizden bu kadar içeride konaklamayı da içimize sindiremedik, kendimiz yine sahil yoluna vurduk. Konaklayamadığımız için de ertesi sabah Maçka’ya gidip  Sümela çıkışını yapamadık, dönüşe ertelemek zorunda kaldık.

Belki duymuşunuzdur;  Rose Macaulay’ın The Towers of Trebizond isimli bir romanı varmış.

productBen bu vesileyle duydum. Bir grup farklı insanın İstanbul’dan Trabzon’a yolculuğunu anlatıyormuş.  Daha okumadığım için ahkam kesemeyeceğim, ama hazır Trabzon’da çok vakit geçiremedik, bari bu kitabı okuyayım diye aklıma not düştüm. Trabzon’a daha önceki bir gidişimde Atatürk’ün tepelerdeki villasını gezmiştim. Villa bazı kaynaklara göre 1890-1903 yılları arasında Trabzon’un zengin bir ailesi olan Karayannidis‘ler için inşa edilmiş ve 1924’de ziyareti esnasından Atatürk’e armağan edilmiş. Sonra Aya Sofya’yı atlamamalısınız. Eski şehri de gezin.

Dediğim gibi Trabzon’da gecelemedik, doğuya doğru hareket ettik. Bu arada da nerede konaklayacağız sıkıntısı baş gösterdi. Bastık Rize‘ye gittik, daha şehre gelmeden Rize Dedeman‘da yerimizi ayırtmıştık. Ama yolda Rize istikametinde giderken, sağ kolda ormanının içine kıvrılan bir küçük yolda Zümrüdüanka Otel‘in tabelasını gördük. Keyifli bir otel varsa kaçırmayalım kaygısıyla, daldık ara yola. Cidden otel, hemen yolun kenarında, deniz ayaklar altında, bir yarın üzerinde minik bir butik otel çıktı. Herşey mantıklı görülüyordu, ama Dedeman’dan pahalıydı (Dedeman150 iken bunlar 170 TL double oda, kahvaltı dahil dediler). Ona içerledik, bir de aşağı katı biraz şark köşesi gibiydi, kahvaltıyı orada yapacağız sandım, biraz üzerime geldi. Bir de Dedeman’a bakalım, siz fiyatı düşünüp bizi arayın dedik ve Dedeman’a yollandık. Dedeman zaten sadece 500 metre ötedeydi. Bir şekilde ben, kablosuz internete tav oldum (Zümrüdüanka’da yok sanıyordum ama varmış, gerçi  2 saat içinde 20 kere kesildi geldi vs) ve oteldeki düğünden göz gözü görmezken, odaya yerleştik. Butik oteldeki adamcağız sonra bizi aradı, 150 TL teklif etti, ama biz yerleşmiştik. Gerçi dönüşte burada kaldık, sonra anlatacağım.

Amma velakin yemek işi hallolmamıştı ve aşağıda düğün sürdükçe otelde yemek yemek hiç cazip değildi. Son Karadeniz’e geldiğimizde Türkiye’nin her yerini biliyor imajı yaratan yol gurusu arkadaşı aradım, nerede ne yiyeceğiz üstad? dedim. Ama sanırım uyuyordu bize pek net olmayan bir tarif verdi. Allah kerim deyip yola koyulduk. Amaçsızca Çayeli‘ne kadar sürdük. Orada, artık ya noluyor birilerine soralım diye durduk ki, Hüsrev gerilerde kalmış. Döndük Hüsrev‘i bulduk.

Hüsrev’i bilmeyen yoktur herhalde, milli kurufasülyecimiz. Bütün duvarları gelen gidenin resimleriyle dolu. Hatta ben eski patronumun nispeten bir gençlik resmini buldum. Eşi ve bir gazeteciyle yemek yiyordu. Ben cinslik yapıp, Hüsrev’de fasülye yemedim. Harika bir köfte yedim. Hatta yanındaki pilav -tereyağından herhalde- safranlı pilav rengindeydi, buram buram tereyağı da kokmuyordu, çok iyiydi. Şöyle görünüyordu:husrevde-kofte1

Hüsrev’de pişen fasülyeler İspir‘den geliyor. Hüsrev kendi tanıtımını çok iyi yapmış. Ankara’da (Balgat’ta) da şubesi var, ama Fatsa’daki Vonalı Celal’daki arkadaştan aldığımız tüyo’ya göre, Çayeli’ndeki Lale restoranın da kurufasülyesi çok meşhurmuş. Adresini bilmiyorum artık, sora sora.

Neyse fasülye ertesi otele döndük, ben otoparktaki keşmekeş içinde 23 Haziran’da post ettiğim mavi minibüs gelin arabasını görüntülemeyibaşardım. Odaya attım kendimi(zi). Düğün tam gaz sürüyordu.

Rize’den hareket edince, Ayder civarına gitmek allahın emri. Biz genelde yol kaçıran tipler olduğumuzdan, koskoca Çayeli sapağını  kaçırmayı başardık. Ancak Fındıklı civarı jetonumuz düştü (allah allah neden çöp arabaları üzerinde Fındıklı belediyesi yazıyor?), geri dönmek zorunda kaldık.

Rize Çamlıhemşin yolu Çamlıhemşin’i geçince ikiye ayrılıyor. Biri Ayder’e, diğeri Çat üzerinden Vernecik yaylasına gidiyor. Ayder, Çamlıhemşin’e 17 km uzaklıkta, Doğu Karadeniz’in en meşhur yaylası. 1990’ların sonunda Kaçkar zirve yapmıştım, oradan hatırlıyorum. Kaçkar zirvesinde kuzey çıkışı için son hazırlık noktasıydı.

O zamanlar dijital makine ortamı yoktu. Evde buna bir çözüm bulup, manuel dijital yaptım kendime. Uçan daire gibi parlayan şey  benim flaş. Ama maalesef etrafta, ortada neler döndüğünü merak eden ve devamlı surette fotoğraf makinesinin peşinde olan 3-4 yaşlarında bir vatandaş varken ancak bu kadar oluyor. Resimler de yıllar içinde yıpranmış zaten:). İlk resim Deniz Gölü‘ne ait.

kackardenizgolu

Ağustos sonuydu (hatta şimdi hatırlıyorum, Lady Di’nin öldüğü yıldı -1997 sanırım- Garibim biz dağdayken ölmüştü, dönüşte ilk  gördüğüm gazetede “gelinliği kefeni oldu” diye başlık vardı, hayırdır dediydim ilkten, sonra anlaşıldı. Tam Dodi’yle eşleşmek üzereydi, İngiliz derin devleti affetmedi dediler sonra), zirveye yakın yerlerde ciddi kar vardı. Sıkı giyinmek lazım.

Bir de minik zirve resmi koyup o günleri yadedeyim, çünkü  artık zirveleri bir tek uçaktan görürüm gibime geliyor. (Gene resmin çeşitli yerlerinde  flaş lekeleri  var mazur görün.)

kackarzirve

Ayder’e geri dönersek, çeşitli kaplıca ortamları mevcut. Biz Kaçkar’da zirve telaşında bir hafta-on gün kadar kampta kaldığımızdan,  dönüşte Ayder’de kaplıcaya gitmiştik. Hamam sevdam oradan başlar.

Ben son gittiğimden beri geçen on senede, Ayder’i o kadar farklı gördüm ki. Betona yenik düşmüş resmen. Pansiyon, incik boncuk satan sürüyle minik büfe, dolmuş taşmış. Benim için cazibesini yitirmiş doğrusu. ayder2

1800 metre yüksekliğindeki Elevit yaylası, Pokut yaylası, Palovit yaylaları çok güzel. Yolları her zaman süper iyi durumda değil, özellikle 4 X 4 bir arabanız yoksa. Köylünün ben benim taksiyle gidiyorum abi, sen bunla rahat gidersin demesine aldanmayın, olayı sorgulayın yoksa bırakırsınız aracı.

Çamlıhemşin bir yol üzerinde ince uzun bir kasaba, nedense ben çok daha büyük bir yer hayal etmişim. Bu arada aralarda,  tepelerde, eski köşkler göze çarpıyor, çok sevimli. camlihemsin

Çamlıhemşin civarından acıktık gene. Yol Fırtına Deresi kenarından akıyordu ve kenarlarda birtakım restoranlar vardı. Bir tanesini gözümüze kestirdik. (Cümle içinde dört kere dere diyeceğim hazırlanın) Dere demeye bin şahit isteyen gürül gürül akan Fırtına deresi dibine kurulu  Dere Restoran’da balık çok iyiydi (0464-656 66 22, Fırtına Deresi 14 km. Dikkaya Köyü, Çamlıhemşin). Normalde deniz balığı dışından balığa bayılmasak da, buna bayıldık. Patates de vardı, bira da vardı, daha ne olsundu. Ben gene tabağımın resmini çektim. Ama balığın mı resmi olsun, fırtına deresi+ bira bardağının mı yarışmasını bardak kazandı.

dere-restoranda-bira

Rize civarlarına gidip sınırı sobelemeden dönmek olmaz diye düşündük. Rize – Hopa 90 km. Çok şeritli yoldan rahat rahat  gidiyorsun, Batum’a kadar devam edebilirsin. Bu arada bir şey öğrendim, THY’nin Gürcistan ile yaptığı anlaşma sonucunda Batum iç hat ağına dahil edilmiş. Yani Hopa’ya gidecekseniz, önce uçakla İstanbul – Hopa sonra otobüsle Batum-Hopa.

Sınırı sobeledikten sonra, tekrar Hopa’ya döndük ve Artvin’e ulaşmak üzere Borçka yoluna döndük. Hopa-Morgul- Borçka arası yol çok güzel. Sağda baraj göleti var, biz  yoldayken güneş batmak üzereydi. Her renk vardı ortamda.

Bu sefer gidemedik ama 2005  civarı bir Macahel maceram olmuştu. Bir iş gezisinde Karadeniz turu yaparken bir gece de Macahel’de kalalım dedik. Borçka’ya bağlı, doğal güzelliği korunmuş altı köyden (Camili, Düzenli, Efeler, Kayalar, Maral, Uğur) oluşan yöre Macahel olarak biliniyor. Borçka’ya 45 km. Borçka’dan Camili’ye köy minibüsleri çalışıyormuş. Biz zamanında (köyün bir cipiydi herhalde) Willis cip benzeri bir şeyle gitmiştik.  Şöför bu güne kadar tanıdığım en geveze adamdı ve nasıl sert kullandı arabayı anlatamam. Hiç de susmadı sağolsun. Araba o kadar sallıyordu ki, arkada iki kişi tuzluk gibiydik. Bizim patron öndeki arabayla (Nissan Patrol gibi birşeydi) konforlu bir şekilde gitti, onun da kulakları çınlasın. Arada çukur geçeceğiz diye arabadan indik bindik, indik bindik, ama sağ salim ulaştık.

camili-yoluMacahel’de iki ahşap camii var. En ünlüsü 1885 yılında yapılmış olan merkezdeki camii. İşlemeleri, oymaları mimarisiyle  ve iç tasarımıyla eşi olmayan muhteşem bir yapı.

camili-camii

Camili’de TEMA’nın Nihat Gökyiğit Konukevinde konakladık. Ama duyduğuma göre son yıllarda bir kaç pansiyon da hizmete girmiş. TEMA için yer ayırttırmak şart (biyotematur 212-283 78 16). Konukevi ile aynı mekandaki TEMA’nın laboratuarında kafkas arısı  ve bal üzerinde türlü türlü çalışmalar yapıyorlar. Tesis çok temiz, modern.Yanlız tek hatırladığım, akşam o kadar soğuk olmuştu ki, bavulumdaki herşeyi üstüste giyerek yatmıştım. Duş almayı aklımdan bile geçirmedim.

macaheltema1Camili köyü tam sınırda, taş atsanız sınır ihlali yapabilir. Bu arada resimdeki telefonum, kimsenin telefonunun çekmediği  ortamda çekiyordu, çok sükse yapmıştı.macaheltelefon

Bu sefer ki  gezimizde Camili’ye dönmediğimiz için Artvin’e  devam ettik. Vardığımızda akşam olmak üzereydi. Artvin enteresan. Onu  bir dahaki post’da anlatacağım.

Kırmızı Baykuş’taki diğer Karadeniz seyahati yazıları:

Gezi yazıları – Samsun’dan doğuya doğru
Gezi yazıları – Samsun
Gezi Yazıları – Fatsa’dan doğuya doğru
Gezi yazıları – Amasra
Gezi yazıları – Artvin

İmza D.